Thanks Andy. I gave up that often tedious back flattening process on plane and spokeshave blades years ago after watching David Charlesworth’s video when first released ( may he rest in peace). Never use this technique on chisels which do require flat backs. I bought the LN honing guide when it was first released after trying several others, and for me the Lie Nielsen honing guide is the best one out there with great functionality and precision engineering . I can free hand sharpen just fine, but usually prefer to use my LN honing guide and the ruler trick. It only takes a 10 seconds or so to easily insert your blade into the guide using a homemade, preset angle guide stop.
Cheers, Michael. Thanks for sharing. It sure looks like a smooth operation - the honing guide and ruler trick combo. I'll get to the honing guide sometime....inertia is a powerful force at this point.
Hi Andy, I’m not against trying new methods, but I only see the value to the ruler trick for a vintage iron that is just too far past the point of flattening. Otherwise, my issue is once you go that route, you’re locked into it basically. I find more frequent honing works for me, but of course I’m not lending my tools out for hard use in classes. Hope all is well, trying to make the LN event next week, if I do I’ll be sure to say hi! Hope all is well.
Thanks Kevin. Please stop by if you make the event. I think you're right about a damaged iron as a better candidate. Seems the ruler method would get it back in use quickly.
I believe that the more troublesome wear bevels on the block plane are a function of the bevel up iron, that it’s minimized on a bevel down plane, or at least that it’s managed as the main bevel is ground in practice. Konrad Sauer has an old post or two where he noted the same http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.com/2010/07/up-down-bevels-that-it.html it’s an interesting topic that doesn’t seem to get much discussion.
Interesting. Thanks Jeremy. I need to investigate it further as well. Anecdotally, I'm seem to get it on block planes (bevel up) and spokeshaves (bevel down). I haven't noticed it on the hand planes, but haven't kept an eye on it recently. I'll check out the Sauer post...I wonder if a chipbreaker plays a role in avoiding that heavy wear.
I must be missing something as I do not see a big advantage to using the 6 inch rule method. You really don't need to flatten the entire back each time, only the last 1/2inch or so. I am also really be late adapter because I still sharpen with my old oilstones. I do use a honing guide to clean up the bevel, then free hand a secondary bevel. I don't mind the oil because I work in a basement so don't mind a little moisture protection. I don't find the method too time consuming. After completing a few projects, I take a couple of hours off and re check and reshape the bevel on all my planes and chisels using my Tormek water sharpener, then - you guessed it- finish up by placing a secondary bevel with my fine oilstone.
Thanks, John. Oilstones were my preferred method for a long stretch as well. And it worked quite well. Then I moved to water stones (the oilstone I own dishes rather quickly and cuts unevenly). Now giving the ruler trick a try. The other ways worked just fine for me. I'm giving it a go to have an opinion on it. A number of trusted woodworking collegues go this route and like the results.
Thanks Andy. I gave up that often tedious back flattening process on plane and spokeshave blades years ago after watching David Charlesworth’s video when first released ( may he rest in peace). Never use this technique on chisels which do require flat backs. I bought the LN honing guide when it was first released after trying several others, and for me the Lie Nielsen honing guide is the best one out there with great functionality and precision engineering . I can free hand sharpen just fine, but usually prefer to use my LN honing guide and the ruler trick. It only takes a 10 seconds or so to easily insert your blade into the guide using a homemade, preset angle guide stop.
Cheers,
Michael
Cheers, Michael. Thanks for sharing. It sure looks like a smooth operation - the honing guide and ruler trick combo. I'll get to the honing guide sometime....inertia is a powerful force at this point.
The wear bevel shows up more on your block plane because it’s bevel up. The backside of the iron is what’s contacting the wood.
Schwarz explains this somewhere. I recently bought a woods and sons hollow auger and the wear bevel is immense on it, really highlighted the issue.
Thanks Adam. I could see that on a hollow auger...
Hi Andy, I’m not against trying new methods, but I only see the value to the ruler trick for a vintage iron that is just too far past the point of flattening. Otherwise, my issue is once you go that route, you’re locked into it basically. I find more frequent honing works for me, but of course I’m not lending my tools out for hard use in classes. Hope all is well, trying to make the LN event next week, if I do I’ll be sure to say hi! Hope all is well.
Thanks Kevin. Please stop by if you make the event. I think you're right about a damaged iron as a better candidate. Seems the ruler method would get it back in use quickly.
I believe that the more troublesome wear bevels on the block plane are a function of the bevel up iron, that it’s minimized on a bevel down plane, or at least that it’s managed as the main bevel is ground in practice. Konrad Sauer has an old post or two where he noted the same http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.com/2010/07/up-down-bevels-that-it.html it’s an interesting topic that doesn’t seem to get much discussion.
Interesting. Thanks Jeremy. I need to investigate it further as well. Anecdotally, I'm seem to get it on block planes (bevel up) and spokeshaves (bevel down). I haven't noticed it on the hand planes, but haven't kept an eye on it recently. I'll check out the Sauer post...I wonder if a chipbreaker plays a role in avoiding that heavy wear.
Thanks Andy,
I must be missing something as I do not see a big advantage to using the 6 inch rule method. You really don't need to flatten the entire back each time, only the last 1/2inch or so. I am also really be late adapter because I still sharpen with my old oilstones. I do use a honing guide to clean up the bevel, then free hand a secondary bevel. I don't mind the oil because I work in a basement so don't mind a little moisture protection. I don't find the method too time consuming. After completing a few projects, I take a couple of hours off and re check and reshape the bevel on all my planes and chisels using my Tormek water sharpener, then - you guessed it- finish up by placing a secondary bevel with my fine oilstone.
Thanks, John. Oilstones were my preferred method for a long stretch as well. And it worked quite well. Then I moved to water stones (the oilstone I own dishes rather quickly and cuts unevenly). Now giving the ruler trick a try. The other ways worked just fine for me. I'm giving it a go to have an opinion on it. A number of trusted woodworking collegues go this route and like the results.